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View Full Version : How To and FAQ for FWD SR clutches


Jason@JGY
01-05-2008, 05:39 PM
We at JGY are frequently contacted for help when it comes to installing one of our clutches, another company's clutch, and for why a clutched failed pre-maturely.

Here is a nice how to on most cable activated SR clutches.......

After installing the clutch and thinking you did it right.......let's check.

1. Front tires off the ground.........lift, jack stands, 2 strong men how ever, just do it safely
2. Car running and in 1st gear, push the pedal to the floor and the front wheels should stop spinning
3. Car running and in 1st gear, with the wheels spinning, you should have about 1.5 to 2.5 inches (can be more) of noticeable free play at the top of the pedal before it starts to get more firm and this is the throw out bearing starting to touch the pressure plate fingers.


If when you do 2., they keep spinning, your cable is too long, shorten it and retry. If you have it as short as it will go and they still spin, then you need to alter your cable. The cheapest way is to drill a hole about 1/4inch back from the clevis pin on the end of the cable bracket and install a bolt and nut........in line with the original pin.......basically, you are making a shorter cable for free and still allowing you to make adjustments. The bolt acts as a pin

If when you do 3., you don't have free play, you need to loosen the cable some.

Keep repeating these steps until you get it.

Notes:
A. If 2. happens, you will prematurely heat your clutch and flywheel because they are NEVER disengaging and you will wear it out sooner and possibly aid to letting a spring pop out.
B. If 3. happens, you are never fully engaging your clutch, thus giving it better opportunity to slip and making it wear out sooner as well.
C. RARELY, we have found that 2. and 3. will be correct, but at full pedal movement the gears are hard to select and is a result of the cable pulling the transmission lever too far and hyper-extending the fingers on the pressure plate. If it seems hard to select gears with your foot to the floor but easier with is barely up off the floor, make your cable longer and repeat the above steps.

p.s. you would be surprised how many individuals and reputable shops don't do this checklist and send a customer away only for them to ruin their clutch sooner
p.p.s.s. It is wise to check your clutch in the above procedure every time you change your oil.........all things adjust and move on their own and cables and clutches are replenish-able items......

timg20t
01-09-2008, 08:50 AM
Hi Jason,

What would cause premature throwout bearing wear? In a Hydrolic clutch type transmission? And is there a procedure we all should go through like the cable type transmission?

Tim

Jason@JGY
01-09-2008, 10:46 AM
hydraulic is similar to above, and actually we did it yesterday on Bruce's car,

you check the pedal and the free play just the same, but instead of messing with a cable, you mess with the adjusting nut that is on the pedal assembly under the dash that allows the pedal to push the M/C more

occationally, the engaging pin that pushes the arm that pushes the throw out bearing can also be changed in length to accomodate for adjustments

as for throwout bearing wearing too soon, often it is a result of the above description not being done,


p.s. your AVATAR IS HUGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

timg20t
01-11-2008, 08:19 PM
Good to know. I never thought you could adjust your pedal with a hydraulic type clutch. Thanks.

Jason@JGY
01-12-2008, 05:23 PM
here a pic of the bolt technique being used to shorten the cable